Friday, March 27, 2015

Starting up the garden!

If you're grossed out about getting wrist-deep in manure, earth worms and dirt, you might want to try a different hobby. I hear knitting is also relaxing....

But if you're not freaked out about mud stains, flecks of dirt in your hair and the wonderful smell of manure in the early morning, then welcome!!

First, you need to choose what plants you want to grow. Many of them need full sun, some can get by in the shade of the house or of a fence. You do not want them to grow under trees or other large shrubs, as they will compete for water and nutrients.

Once you decide on which plants and researched what conditions they need, you need to figure out if you have the right spot to put the garden in. Usually, a nice, open and flat area is best. You can buy or make shade cloth or use lattice, so not having a shady spot available isn't really much of a worry.

Next, you need to decide on what kind of containment you'll be going with. Directly in the ground, in raised beds or in containers lifted off the ground.

In ground and raised beds are sort of the same, except with beds, you add some cardboard, then the dirt and plant your seedlings in that. In the ground, you mix up your dirt and soil, then plant.

With containers, there are no weeds. But you need to make enough drainage holes so it won't flood and drown all your plants. You can also make a drainage layer. It's simply 2-3 inches of course rock on the bottom, then a layer of weed fabric to keep the soil from clogging up the rocks. This will allow heavy rain to quickly drain out away from the plants and then take it's time dripping out of the drainage holes. It's also possible for the dirt and roots to get too warm, killing the plants, since they are in a relatively small container and being heated by the sun.

After that, you either buy premade soil mix or buy the additives to make your own. In my roughly 4x5 foot beds, I add in one to two 5gal buckets of rabbit poop, one 25 pound bag of sand, half a bag of peat moss and one bag of nice topsoil. I also have to add some other fertilizers as well, usually P2O5 & K2O.

Once you've decided on your containment, buy the supplies and bring them home. Next, set them out in your garden area, rearrange them until you find a nice system or certain pattern to have them in. I only keep about a foot of space between beds. I don't need much more room to stand than that. But if you like to sit and take your time, then at least three feet of space in between beds should be your goal.
It might also be a good idea to put down weed barrier fabric in between the beds, then add some mulch. This is something I still need to get done!

After your ground is tilled, beds or containers are set, add your soil mix and turn everything in.
If you are using peat moss, soak the beds, a lot! And then mix, a lot! While your at it, soak some more! Peat moss has an annoying habit of soaking up the top layer or even having water skim over it and seem wet, when it's actually bone dry underneath. So you will have to do a good bit of soaking and mixing to thoroughly saturate it the first go around. When you're satisfied that every bit is wet, level out the plots and let them sit for 2-4 days, so the excess water drains or evaporates away. If you are planting seeds directly, you can stick them in right away. You won't have to water them for a little while.

On the 2nd or 4th day, it's time to plant! But I'll save that for the next post!


This bed is only partly done. It has 5 gallons worth of fresh rabbit manure and a thick layer of cardboard on bottom to keep weeds away. (This only works for the first year, as cardboard will compost.) I still need to add the rest of my soil mix to this bed and mix it up.

Here is how I added another foot of length to this bed. First, I scraped things up neatly and then pulled up the weeds.
 After that, I placed the thick layer of cardboard down, making sure some sticks out the bed as well.
 Lastly, I spread out the manure and soil. Done! (Note, I also added a foot to the back side, too.)

Here are two finished beds from last year, two more last year beds that still need to be weeded and mixed and then the two brand new beds for this year!
 Four in the front are done! One half done and the other still needs the cardboard and soil mix added.

If you're wondering why I don't have four walls to my beds, it's a simple matter of not enough mullah (money). And then if you're wondering, "Hey, don't they spill out the open sides?" Well, no, they don't. I thought that would happen, too, but it simply never did!

Tuesday, October 21, 2014

Safe plants for rabbits Part 2

Oat grass



















Pumpkins, gourds and squash fruits











Common
Mallow
Herb Robert
Hoary Plantain
Marigold Flowers
Cleavers
Chickweeds
Groundsel
Coltsfoot
Burnet
Avems
Nipplewort
Clover
Dandelion
Hawkweed
Birdsfoot Trefoil
Meadow Cranesbill
Wild Chamomile
Pineapple Mayweed
Yarrow
Shepherds Purse
Greater Plantain
Fields Penny Cress
Ladys Bedstraw
Ribwort Plantain
White deadnettle
Musk Mallow
Yarrow
Smooth Sow Thistle
Agrimony
Knapweed
Hawthorn
Bramble
Birch
Apple- Leaves & Twigs
Dog Rose- Petals & Leaves

Herbs
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)
Sage (Salvia officinalis)
Dill (Anethum graveolens)
Basil (Ocimum basilicum)
Parsley (Petroselinum crispum)
Oregano (Origanum vulgare)
Peppermint (Mentha x piperita)
Coriander or Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum)
Lavender (Lavandula officinalis)
Tarragon (Artemisia dracunculoides)
Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis)
Thyme (Thymus vulgaris)
Chamomile (Chamomilla recutita)
Nettle (Urtica dioica) Only dried
Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale)
Mustard Greens (Sinapis Alba)
Comfrey (Symphytum officinale)
Caraway (Carum carvi)
Salad Burnet (Sanguisorba minor)
Chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium)
Lovage (Levisticum officinale)
Lady´s Smock (Cardamine pratensis)
Borage (Borago officinalis)
Clover (Trifolium pratense)

Leaves and twigs of woody plants
Alder
Birch
Spruce
Rowan
Hawthorn
Aspen
Ash
Willow
Maple
Goat Willow
Poplar
Hazel
Juniper
Gooseberry
Redcurrant
Apple tree
Pear tree
Blackcurrant

Grasses and flowers
Coltsfoot
Dandelion
Vetches
Great plantain
Nettle (dried only)
Lady's Mantle
Bishop's Goutweed
Heartsease
Fireweed/Rosebay Willowherb
Sunflower
Garden Nasturtium/Indian Cress
Pot marigold
Oxeye daisy/Marguerite
Wood Cranesbill/Woodland Geranium
Chamomile
Rose
Jerusalem artichoke
Hyssop
Dame’s Rocket

Fruit- Berries. In limited amounts
Strawberries & leaves
Raspberries & leaves
Blackberries & leaves
Blueberries
Cowberries

Fruits. In limited amounts
Banana
Pineapple
Apple (not the core)
Grapes
Pear
Mango
Watermelon
Orange (not the peel)
Papaya
Peach

Vegetables
Carrots + tops (roots rich in sugar)
Fennel
Celery sticks
Peppers
Radish + tops
Asparagus
Rosso lettuce
Ruccola salad
Lollo lettuce
Beets + tops
Parsnip (high on sugar)
Squash
Artichoke
Pumpkin
Garden pea pods
Give small amounts of these - they contain lots of water, or can cause bloat:
Tomato (green plant is toxic, no leaves or stems, red and ripe is safe)
Cucumber
Kohlrabi
Cauliflower
Broccoli
Spinach

Sunday, March 2, 2014

Such a long, never ending, Winter!

Ah, who would of known that this Winter would or could cause so many problems?
We lost a 2012 ewe and her two lambs. Almost lost my two old timer ewes, not sure how their unborn lambs are doing, hoping for the best. Didn't realize that sheep hate snow, so much so, that they won't leave the barn for anything! They're now getting extra grass hay and grains.
Lost a litter of black Silver Fox, mom sat on the fur in the nest and they froze. I've been adding and double checking the other three nests constantly. We have a litter of 8 blues from Pomphry, a litter of 9 black and one blue from Kedusha and a litter of 7 lilacs from Veronica, all fathered by Sir Oser!
Our pipes froze and we had no water for nearly two weeks. Afterwards, when they thawed just a bit, we found out that a pipe under the house and in the well-house had burst. Of course! But we found someone able to fix them and insulate them for a good price, as well as done right. Last year, a well-house pipe burst, huge well known company came out, charged us a ridiculous amount and in the end, did a terrible and sub-par job! Which, failed this year.
My laptop won't charge, the doberman puppy nearly cut his foot off, trough heaters failed and we were snowed in. Truely over this Winter and now expecting 8-10in of snow tonight. It's all making me feel so tired.
But the house got new siding, I rescued a miniature filly, the big horses are doing well, as well as the other pets. In the end, it can still be worse, just wishing it doesn't and Spring arrives soon!


Hoping everyone else's Winter is going better! =)

Saturday, July 27, 2013

Safe plants for rabbits!

 Broad leaf Plantian


Thistle, not all are safe.
 Burdock, Arctium lappa.
Some parts are edible & some medicinal, but it may cause miscarriages.
 Crabgrass
Dandelion, Taraxacum officinale

 Dock, Curly Dock
 Multiflora Rose
 Yellow Hop Clover
 Purselane
 Alsike Clover
 Chicory
 Lambsquarter
 Common Mallow, Malva neglecta Wallr.
 Pumpkin vine
 Mulberry
 Narrow leaf Plantain
 Red Clover
 Purple Deadnettle
 Sycamore
 White Clover, Trifolium repens
 Black Willow
 Yellow Nutsedge

Thursday, June 6, 2013

Sexing Rabbits! Easy as pie!

     When sexing, get someone to hold it or stick it in your lap or under an arm upside down, which ever works best for their size. Then, the pointer finger goes over the tail next to the bum, middle finder goes behind the tail by the spine and you pin the tail between those two fingers. Thumb rests right up against the vent. Pull the tail back and towards the spine, while pressing down and away with the thumb.

     For the smaller kits that are around 3wks old, you will need another hand to use an extra finger or two to gently push down, wiggle and pop out the sex organ. Does will only show a triangle, it can look like a stuck willy. A buck can also look like a doe if you aren't able to fully pop out the tube. Honestly, just wait another week and they will emerge far easier and less guessing. It's also stressful for the kits, they don't like you messing with their sensitive little parts and it's easy to accidentally pinch or scratch them.

Bucks, from 2.5 weeks to 5 months old. 





Does, from 1 day old to 6 months old.